It's no secret that the market, after this latest recession, has changed. It has made some seemingly untouchable people or roles more vulnerable than they thought they may ever be and more importantly made us stop and think about what is really important and (for me at least) WHO is really important- or as I usually like to say- "what makes YOU so special?"
Now more than ever it's time to be able to back it up. Being famous for being famous isn't enough. There was even an article recently about blogs which discussed that some well known blogs weren't even the most read. Well, I guess that's ok, we blog to share, not usually to make money but fashion is very, very different. Making clothes takes money- a LOT of money. TV reality shows don't really capture this and the explosion of newly “famous” designers must make more than me question- where did they go? Every month the fashion magazines run columns of the newest, hottest designers which always makes me wonder where last year’s designers who were on this page now are.
Having read this article in the NY Times recently I was happy to see it raised some of the very points I’ve been thinking about for a while and it seems Paper Magazine founder Kim Hastreiter in particular may have ruffled some sensitive feathers by speaking some truths (quel horreur!) although it seems she voiced what more than a few had been thinking.
For example: “I am in complete agreement with her,” Mr. (Prabal) Gurung said. “Talent should not be instantaneously celebrated, but rather nurtured and grown steadily.”
There have been some famous people who have been designers (both successful and not) as well as talented designers who just haven’t been able to stay in business. With the youth of today (and especially all of those recently graduated fashion students!) wanting to be famous maybe even more than wanting to be respected for their talent or work ethic we run the possibility of having yet more unprepared designers wanting to break out on their own instead of taking time to learn from the pros.
As everyone gets more careful with their money and needs to believe in what they buy more than ever before, we can ask:
- just because someone is recognizable, does it mean they can have a fashion collection? And if so, is it guaranteed success?
- does fame build the business or raise expectations to an unrealistic (and unattainable) level
- what does it take to be successful in fashion?
- should fashion design come with a residency or apprenticeship program to help make the designers appreciate and learn the industry as a whole? I mean after school, like Med school requires full time in a hospital- not a semester of an internship while studying.
- should fashion school teach more business classes? Including lessons on getting financing?
What do you think will help the Emperor stay clothed?
6 comments:
This is a great post, Britt, posing some really important questions that designers, retailers, the producers of reality shows, fashion schools and, actually, the industry as a whole needs to think about and address in each of their own ways as as a whole. I remember back in the '80s we had a crop of incredibly talented up and coming fashion designers who faced numerous difficulties, many of which you mention in this blog and many who went out of business because of some of the things you mention in this blog. I remember it very well because that is when I was covering fashion and newer designers in particular. I can speak to those time perhaps better, now that I cover more of the fine jewelry market (which also has similar issues). Anyway, I remember in particular, the designers who achieved fame in magazines (I mean got coverage in every fashion magazine, which then lead to the major retail players buying their collections) They wound up being bought in many doors in these influential stores and perhaps making them 'famous' too soon, before the consumer had a chance to catch up. These talents had their collections marked down, during season, to sometimes 60% off and eventually were told by the same retailers who touted them that they couldn't sell. This led to their being covered much less in the media that once promoted them so intensely. I think that the same thing continues today but perhaps even worse because of the reality shows, because everyone wants to achieve the fame and perhaps not do the work or the apprenticeships. Working for American luminaries like Geoffrey Beene and Donna Karan gave assistants a real education in addition to school and through these positions, they learned the art of the business. Today, some-- and I say some (because there are truly worthy designers who work hard, pay their dues and have kept afloat in a shaky economy) don't even design for the sake of the art but instead to achieve that fame that is so alluring. I think that the industry needs to take care to help the youth grow through perhaps, yes, additional courses, schooling that has as one of it's graduation requirements a real apprenticeship with a bigger design house and to create an atmosphere that is nurturing rather than publicity driven. Fashion is a business and fledgling designers and companies need to be cultivated in order to survive some bumpy times and competition. I say definitely in with the new if they aren't just all news. In any case great topic for discussion!!!
I apologize before hand - you know this will be a long comment :
Oh boy!!! One of my favorite topics (and one that HAUNTS me at night because of those who do not listen....)
In my particular case (surface designer living and wroking from a place in the world where surface design is not even considered as a possibility of development - and the majority do not even know what it is!) I must say that... IT-IS-HARD to make it in the industry - actually in every industry it is hard to make it - but one (like fashion) where the competition is huge.... what you quote: “Talent should not be instantaneously celebrated, but rather nurtured and grown steadily” is KEY! And yes... I also think it should start during the early stages of young designers formation.
This reminds me of an interview the Salvadoran ministry of economy did with me... They asked me something like "do you think designers should be introduced to exporting their creations during college"... So one of your questions is in my opinion a WONDERFUL idea and one that schools all over the world shoud implement! Speciall design schools because they teach us to dream - it is good to dream... but sometimes even our teachers can forget what the real world is all about and how it works!!!! Some do not even have a clue sadly! So to be able to do what med students do towards the end (work in their field!) can give young designers a clear view of the road ahead!
ALSO, in our case again, El Salvador is not recognized as a design destination AT ALL... so MORE SO design schools should be teaching their students all about exports, trade shows, pricing, PR, financing your own studio, etc, etc... and a special SPECIAL (in bold and underlined) course on what you (the designer) are willing to give up in order to make it in the industry, which ever it is the one you choose....
I spent AT LEAST 4 years researching surface design... trends in many areas... working on my portfolio BEFORE even considering offering my work! I was blessed with a day job (yes! a real job that paid for my bills - and dreams!) that required me to travel to trade shows (A TRUE BLESSING)... and everytime I had to travel - specially NY - I would go to libraries, spend time in stores, museums - let alone the trade show itself... wrote EVERYTHING that caught my attention and just looking and soaking eeeeverything I could in 5 days..... Then I would follow up on all my notes from the show.... (I could go on for hours)... The point is that I sacrificed all the fun of, for example in NY, go to a show... go see the Statue of Liberty (still have not met her :( ... all the fun things my friends still do not believe I have never done with all the traveling I did.... sacrificed my hanging out with friends back home because it sometimes meant that I would spend money on eating out, drinking, having fun - and I knew there was a book or magazine subscription I wanted (needed) - LET ALONE SAVING FOR EXHIBITING AT SHOWS!!... For years I would come in from my day job and spend from 6pm to 1am (monday thru monday) working on my portfolio and that research I mention......
“Talent should not be instantaneously celebrated, but rather nurtured and grown steadily.” This should be engraved in young designer minds (well... in their teaches minds to start off with!!!). Young designers sometimes forget that you might not make it during the first try (it usually does not happen like that)....
You need to be patient!
You need to INVESTIGATE every subject around your work!
You need to work extra hard!!
You need listen to the ones with the knowledge!
It will certainly spare you heart aches and mucho dinero!!!
GRACIAS PEQUEÑA!!!
I woke up this morning thinking I had missed one final piece of advice (according with my experience)...... Until you see you can live from your 'dream' DO-NOT let go of your day job as it will help you pay for your bills and invest in tradeshows, books, courses, etc.....
Even though I am not a designer, I agree 100%! I feel most of the Designers back home should make some changes in their priorities,
and also make some sacrifices - and work on that little !umph! and the drive they must have to be able to be follow their dreams and goals.
QUERER, ES PODER!
Mama Emma
Well,well,well...where to begin?
Yes, the new generation of fashion graduates are completely out of touch with the reality of the industry. It's a little bit their fault and the schools' as well. Running a fashion incubator has definitely confirmed this for me which is why we do not accept designers fresh out of school. They come out completely ill-equipped for the realities of having your own business but with the delusion of making in the blink of an eye. As you point out, those designers that were buzzed about last year...where are they now?
There is the effect of reality shows and the glitzy media, oh and don't forget the celebrity driven brands.Ii was just checking out the blog of Madonna's daughter who is launching her own line called "Material Girl"...yikes, I mean how blatant can you be? Why do we need a 13 year old to even be present with a collection? These type of things do not help to convince a young designer that he/she must pay his dues before any chance at success.
Which brings me to my next point. There is an issue we run into often at the incubator: either the designers try too hard to please everyone with their collection and it has no soul or they bring out designs that are not viable products. Finding the designer that understands that people want something new, unique but wearable and worth the asking price is a rarity.
There is also the idea of "hard work". Frankly, alot of them have no clue how hard their icons work. They don't realize that all these Karls, Donnas, Marcs, Jean-Pauls and the rest of them work like dogs and have been doing so for a very long time..they just make it look easy..and the younguns are fooled just like the public. Why are they fooled into thinking it's glamourous and easy? Because none of them spend any time in the trenches, as apprentices, assistants or just making coffee!
On the side of the industry, especially the retailers, they have become like the record companies that drop an artist after the first album because it didn't go platinum. They no longer nurture designers like before. Building up client loyalty through the seasons, little by little. I recommend watching the documentary on Valentino "Last Emperor". His longtime partner, Giancarlo Giacometti, talks about fashion today and says that if Valentino was starting today he would never have been able to be in business. They built their brand slowly, building relationships with retailers and customers over the years..impossible today.
Be it the young designers or the retailers or the press for that matter, everyone has become a victim of the need for over-night sensations...sadly.
Is it an effect of our throw away society? I believe customers are evolving and are now looking more and more for real, authentic, well-made and well thought out products. I see it with our young brands in the project. Hopefully,the press and retailers will catch on...
YES THEY SHOULD!!!
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